{"id":6161,"date":"2012-12-06T08:06:11","date_gmt":"2012-12-06T08:06:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/noi3.org\/site\/?p=6161"},"modified":"2012-12-06T08:06:11","modified_gmt":"2012-12-06T08:06:11","slug":"here-s-what-life-is-really-like-in-post-apocalyptic-afghanistan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/site.noi3.org\/?p=6161","title":{"rendered":"Here’s What Life Is Really Like In Post-Apocalyptic Afghanistan"},"content":{"rendered":"

\t\"Afghanistan\"<\/p>\n

\tI hadn’t even opened the package containing my shiny new NYU Master’s in Journalism and I was already heading to Afghanistan.\u00a0It had been a couple of years since I ended my service as a U.S. Marines combat correspondent, and I wanted to get back to the war.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\t\"Afghanistan\"<\/p>\n

\tPeople told me I was crazy for doing it.<\/p>\n

\tI hadn’t even opened the package containing my shiny new NYU Master’s in Journalism and I was already heading to Afghanistan.\u00a0It had been a couple of years since I ended my service as a U.S. Marines combat correspondent, and I wanted to get back to the war.<\/p>\n

\tTraveling as a civilian, I paid my own way and had hardly any support, but I also had more freedom to travel than when I was in uniform.<\/p>\n

\tI took the following photos during the delay following my arrival in Kabul and my official embed date (until which, no military unit will give you refuge, regardless of your citizenship). For these few days I played tourist: found a nice little guest house, contracted a driver and an interpreter, and headed on daily roadtrips around the area.<\/p>\n

\tWhat I\u00a0saw was a country hardened by decades of war and poverty \u2014 but also filled with sympathetic people who you’ll rarely see in Western media.\u00a0People who, in the midst of chaotic street life, insisted\u00a0I take my shoes off and get comfortable, drink tea and eat candy prior to doing business. Kids living in squalor who still dreamed of becoming doctors and engineers \u2014 and were thrilled to pose for pictures and beat me in impromtu soccer matches.<\/p>\n

\tI’ve already\u00a0published an essay<\/a>\u00a0and put up\u00a0photo spreads of the trip<\/a>, but I saved these shots of Afghan life for last. Away from the war is where things get complicated. There is no moral and no ending, happy or otherwise. There are a lot of problems, and they’re only getting worse.<\/p>\n

\t\u00a0<\/p>\n

\n

\t\tI arrived at the airport and right as bewilderment and confusion peaked, I found my interpreter and driver.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\"I<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\tWith few traffic cops in Kabul, the right of way goes to who’s the most aggressive.<\/h2>\n
\n
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\t\t\t\t\"With<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\tFirst we go to a mountain top overlooking Kabul, where kids fly kites and older folks gather to relax.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\"First<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\tA few older gentlemen allow me to photograph them as they peel oranges and talk politics.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\"A<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\tAll around Afghanistan are signs of war, like the concertina wire wrapped around this fence.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\"All<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n
\n
\n

\t\t\t\t\u00a0<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\tIt was getting dark, and it was my first day, so I figured it’d be good to head back, find out where I’m sleeping.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\"It<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\tRainy season in Afghanistan is a prelude to fighting season, I arrived in the middle of the transition.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\"Rainy<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll
\t\t\t\t\t\u00a0<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n
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\t\t\t\tThe guest house had a few security guards with AK-47s. They reminded me of a leaner, more well equipped version of mall cops in Jersey.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\"The<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\tThe garages were lined with cars of varying security. Being self funded, I opted for the least armored vehicle \u2014 plus, the Taliban wasn’t looking to bomb journalists.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\"The<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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\n

\t\t\t\t\tI had to be careful about taking pictures of women, and was continually harassed by the local police force (which, consequently, didn’t mind accepting bribes).<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"I<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\tThis group of businessmen sipping tea saw me with my camera and asked for a picture.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"This<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\tJust like NYC: ‘Street-meat’ vendors cook hard during mealtime hours and enthusiastically shout out to customers in the street below.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Just<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\tI made it a point to talk to as many kids as possible \u2014 this clever little guy described to me the political implications of a U.S. withdrawal (in short, ‘not good’).<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"I<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\tI asked this next fellow, no more than eight years old, if he knew what a ‘terrorist’ was; his best guess: ‘A type of American car?’<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"I<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\tSmoldering hot coals mark the end of a baker’s busy hours.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Smoldering<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\tHere he is counting sacks of money, in all Afghan bills, called Afghanis.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Here<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\tBecause inflation is so bad here, about $200 equates to 7,000 Afghanis.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Because<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\tA fabric salesman tells me that Americans are good for weddings, his main business. ‘If you leave, what will I do, there will be no more security, and no more weddings.’<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"A<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\tRefrigeration is not widely available in bulk sizes out here, so businesses use cellars, dug deep into the ground, to preserve their perishables.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Refrigeration<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\tEach day many businessmen find a good spot, drop a blanket filled with wares, and hope for the best.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Each<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\tOpen-air meat markets sport giant sides of beef. Upon closer inspection I begin to understand why the U.S. has an FDA.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Open-air<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\tWar aside, most kids here spend a few hours a day in school. This row of backpacks sports images of American cartoons that stopped being popular in the 80s.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"War<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\tSome things are pretty universal, regardless of culture. Women’s bags and purses are big business here in the bazaar.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Some<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\tAlso several kinds of knock-off American basketball shoes.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Also<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\tMost shop owners use beat up old calculators to keep track of sales. Computerized cash registers are not just expensive, they’re impractical.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Most<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n
\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\tThis young lad stops so I can photograph him \u2014 he seems like he could break into a sprint without dropping the bread.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"This<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\tSweets are big business here and across the Middle East.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Sweets<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tKabul seems infinitely curious about ‘energy drinks,’ of which several different kinds can be found.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Kabul<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n
\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tI’m quickly surrounded by throngs of eager and curious street kids, who photo bomb the frame.<\/h2>\n
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\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"I'm<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t‘Wheelbarrow men’ line up looking for work \u2014 whether it’s a woman with too many groceries, or a shopkeep who needs to ship something locally.<\/h2>\n
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\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"'Wheelbarrow<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tA couple Afghans secure a load to a larger wheelbarrow \u2014 someone’s got his work cut out for him here.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"A<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWomen shop for cloth, among other things, for ceremonial purposes.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Women<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tI’ve been in the bazaar now for a few hours, and am starting to get some attention.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"I've<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tIn an attempt to get a shot of the weird ‘jumbo-tron’ in the center square of the bazaar, it occurs to me that this ‘attention’ might not be the best kind.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"In<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWe get something to eat and head out for a night shoot.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"We<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tDarkness is when the signature colored globes begin to shine \u2014 a habit of Afghan businesses in night-time hours.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Darkness<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tFires burn, either for warmth or to cook food. I know it’s risky to be out right now, but I want to get the right shots.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Fires<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tI’m a little iffy about eating anything fried. God knows where the oil came from.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"I'm<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tLighting his whole operation is this single, super bright light bulb.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Lighting<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tHe seems to be a popular guy \u2014 during our short stay, several Afghans call him by name and stop by to shoot the breeze.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"He<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tSo far, my fixer has been great at predicting threats, but right now he’s encouraging me to shoot as much as possible.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"So<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tTHUMP! Heavy as hell, a piece of crushed up concrete nails me in the back as I set up this shot. An unseen assailant is throwing things. I get the heck out of the there.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"THUMP!<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tBack in the car: I’m significantly larger (and more well trained) than the average Afghan, but I’m also quite outnumbered. I take the hint.<\/h2>\n
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\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Back<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tThe village is like nothing I’ve ever seen: the fishermen live mostly in these huts by the river during the warmer months.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"The<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tThis little guy takes time out of his busy day to ‘mean mug’ the American photographer.<\/h2>\n
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\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"This<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tSeveral young boys find their work after school hours with the fishermen.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Several<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tThe boys scoop fish directly out of the water with their bare hands.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"The<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tEventually other local boys join in \u2014 hoping at the very least to get a free meal.<\/h2>\n
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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Eventually<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tPracticed hands open up the fish and pull out the inedible parts.<\/h2>\n
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\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Practiced<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tEventually when the pile is high enough, they’ll carry a basket over to the cook.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Eventually<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tThe cook will further clean and prepare the fish.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"The<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tThen into the oil they go, fried for hungry customers.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Then<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tHe was a nice guy, sure, but if I had to give some advice, it would be to not eat the fish.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"He<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n
\n
\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tAfter a few hours, yet again, I’ve gathered a small gaggle of children who misbehave and show off for the camera.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"After<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tHorsemen are common in Afghanistan. They offer rides and pictures to tourists for a fee.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Horsemen<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n
\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tMy fixer, ‘Mubine,’ an enthusiastic young Muslim man who good-naturedly encouraged me to take a gander at the Koran, insisted we stop at this graveyard, where I found kids playing among the stones.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"My<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tThe different billboards and advertisements in Afghanistan would certainly grab anyone’s attention. Mubine tells me the obvious; that this poster advertises the benefits of enlisting in the police.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"The<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWe head up into the mountain slums, the poorest areas of Kabul.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"We<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tI understand ‘slum’ is a derogatory term, but there is no other way to describe these areas. Taking the edge off the word won’t take the edge off the reality.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"I<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n
\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tHere comes the gaggle of children. As usual, I ask them questions, feed them what little bubble gum I have. They tell me their hero is ‘John Cena,’ the American wrestler.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Here<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tThe shuddered and unused ice cream shack seems from a forgotten time, possibly when things were a little better for Kabul.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"The<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n
\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tThis little guy is curious, but not nearly as forward as his older compadres (one of whom literally plucked a few hundred Afghanis right out of my pocket).<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"This<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n
\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tSewers here are open, and I notice adults pissing and throwing indiscriminate refuse in these trenches. Then, the poorer among them, kids mostly, surf through the trash looking for anything edible.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Sewers<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tI’d had enough. So we headed back down into the heart of Kabul.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"I'd<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n
\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tIt’s just seems strange to me to advertise Pepsi in a huge billboard above an open-air market.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"It's<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tDon’t forget to drink coke.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Don't<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tRight in a city square, in the shadow of a sign screaming the advantages of prepaid cell phones, a group of kids plays cricket.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Right<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tThey’re also in the shadow of a low-on-business construction company.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"They're<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tIt seems like all of Afghanistan is still in the shadow of the housing crisis. Unfinished buildings dot the landscape.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"It<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n
\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tInside what should have been the basement for a gigantic residential building.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Inside<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tI set the camera down, try not to be too troubled, and throw down a short game with the kids. They go crazy, and all the adults watching laugh as the kids run circles around me.<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"I<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGeoffrey Ingersoll<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tIt will be a lasting memory. And it wasn’t until the end that I felt thankful the military wouldn’t take me early.<\/h2>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"It<\/div>\n
\n
\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tArticolul original<\/a><\/p>\n

<\/div>\n

\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\u00a0<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

\t\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I hadn’t even opened the package containing my shiny new NYU Master’s in Journalism and I was already heading to Afghanistan.\u00a0It had been a couple…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":6089,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[27],"tags":[210,1088,382,1089,895,52,632],"class_list":["post-6161","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-economie","tag-afganistan","tag-dupa","tag-evolutie","tag-local","tag-oameni","tag-razboi","tag-viata"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/site.noi3.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6161","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/site.noi3.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/site.noi3.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/site.noi3.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/site.noi3.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=6161"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/site.noi3.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6161\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/site.noi3.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/6089"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/site.noi3.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=6161"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/site.noi3.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=6161"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/site.noi3.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=6161"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}